Zambezi Safaris Blog

…scribblings from Africa by the Zambezi Safari & Travel Company

Batoka rafting expedition – Zambezi River

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Victoria Falls bungee

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Have you survived this?  A collection of BigAir shots from Victoria Falls bungee courtesy Trish Mambinge and Garth Flower.

"5 - 4 - 3 - 2- 1 - B-U-N-G-E-E!!!!!!" The drop only takes 4 seconds. You'll see the Zambezi in really widescreen mode.

 

It's a leap of faith before freefalling for up to 70 metres before you fly out over the rapids of the Zambezi River in a huge arc

Victoria Falls – best seen from Zimbabwe or Zambia?

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This argument continues to rage, light-heartedly of course.  The answer is simple – Zim is the place to get the best view from ground level.  Your alternative is to get aerial and take a chopper ride over the Falls.

Zimbabwe is on the western bank of the Zambezi and holds 4 of the 5 waterfalls - the Devil's Cataract, the Main Falls, Rainbow Falls and Horseshoe Falls. The Eastern Cataract flows on the Zambian shoreline.

Shearwater chopper over the Main Falls, with Livingstone Island, Horseshoe and Rainbow Falls (Zim side). Eastern Cataract and the Knife Edge at top of picture (Zambian side).

Zimbabwe's rainforest shrouded in spray. At the Main Falls this massive volume of water is converted to mist by strong rising winds before it hits the floor of the gorge 93m below.

The Devil's Cataract, Zimbabwe. Derives its name from the adjacent island where local tribesmen performed sacrificial ceremonies during the time of the early missionaries. These acts were referred to as "devilish". Hence the name of the western-most cataract over which water cascades 70m.

Batoka Sky microlight over the Eastern Cataract (pic courtesy SafPar)

Left to right, Livingstone Island, Horseshoe and Rainbow Falls in Zimbabwe, Eastern Cataract in Zambia. (Devil's Cataract and the Main Falls are out of view on the left. In the foreground, Danger Point (Zimbabwe), the Knife Edge (Zambia).

More aerial shots of Victoria Falls on ZambeziFans

Pemba, the place for quiet strolling

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Many thanks to Matthew and Carina Saus plus Jesper Anhede for this small selection of shots of Manta on Pemba Island, Tanzania.  …see the fuller gallery on ZambeziFans or a smaller selection on ZambeziZone Pinterest.

Manta beach stroll, Pemba

 

Beat this for water clarity!

Pemba lionfish (photo credit Jesper Anhede)

 

Pemba reef (photo credit Jesper Anhede)

 

Ol Doinyo Lengai – An Adventure Too Far?

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In November 2008 we joined a recce trip through the Tanzanian craters stretching from Ngorongoro, Olmoti, Empakaai and past Ol Doinyo Lengai toLakeNatronon the Rift Valley floor.

A walking trail with some vehicle backup and the last stretch using donkeys to carry water, food and gear.

The hike itself included epic scenery with wonderful company.  It amounted to 4 days of thoroughly enjoyable exercise, brilliant weather and great conditions despite the dust, heat and rationed water.

Fairly hard work with small space for the wicked and none for the lazy.  It was a good time for each of us to settle into comfortable rhythms and relax with our own thoughts for hours on end and then share some truly hysterical moments at the end of each day.  An outstanding hike by the best standards.

We finished off at a little oasis on the edge of Lake Natron and celebrated with multiple showers, good food and buckets of beer.  This was all a bit premature…

 

Ol Doinyo Lengai

Known to the Maasai as “The Mountain of God” it had dominated our route from the practically deserted village of Nayobi to Acacia Camp down to the lake.

This is an active volcano with loose ash on baked rock that rises as a symmetrical cone up 1880m off the valley floor to its summit at just under 3000m.  It’s truly imposing whenever in sight.

Ol Doinyo Lengai had been very active since early 2006 with a major eruption in September 2007 and others following through most of 2008.

On arrival at Ngare Sero Camp we heard that a week before some climbers had done the summit.  Now a climb had always been a glimmer of hope and probably most unlikely but local guides were excited to take on the challenge so we decided to go for it at the very last moment.  At midnight 8 of us set off with 3 guides.

The hike starts gently but before long you’re clambering up a very rough surface with swirling cold clouds and talc-like ash flying about.  Our guides soon realised that recent eruptions had obliterated the traditional ascent routes.  With a simple head torch you’re left with little choice.  You either continue upwards or hang out in the cold and descend after sunrise.  (A descent in the dark even in the best conditions is simply out of the question.)  The wiser in the group hunkered down and backed off taking in the cold night, a few crazies continued.

So for hours we scrambled upwards, through ash filled gullies and over solid ridges where the options left or right were absolutely impossible.  Often on all fours up to a loosely covered concrete apron nearer the summit.  The final ascent route became obvious once dawn broke.  We were well behind schedule at this point.

We found ourselves on a very exposed face where crumbling ash and a great ridge is marked by a notch in the skyline.  The last stretch through these “Pearly Gates” to the summit up a very narrow edge was dodgy but we wasted no time – we took a few photos on the summit, hyper-ventilated some more and turned around.
We’d been heading upwards for 6 hours.  Rarely looking backwards and consciously denying how risky this little jaunt had become.  Getting up was easy, getting down was like a nightmare by comparison.  Physically demanding up and more so down, the sun was starting to hammer us and with a strong respect for heights the going was mentally tough too.

13 hours after leaving the trailhead we were back at the vehicle – exhausted and very relieved.  We’d been unknowingly ill-prepared for this one.  We did this epic climb on snacks and a few litres of water each. In easy times Ol Doinyo Lengai had been treated as a moderate 6 hour hike and the slopes were well vegetated in those days.

Do it again?  That walk toLakeNatronanytime but clambering up and down that volcano isn’t the happiest place for an acrophobe.  The answer…of course!

The lessons?  Very simple… 

  • There’re few places in the world where you can just go ahead and have a seriously good adventure. Africa’s one – just take responsibility for your own risks, count on your buddies and let them count on you too.
  • Do epic stuff!

More on Oldoinyo Lengai from Wiki

Updates on Ol Doinyo Lengai from St. Lawrence University

Zambezi public gallery via Picasa  |  See the Facebook gallery on Ol Doinyo Lengai

Hands-free technology, Africa style

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….only in Africa!

African hands-free kit

Filed under Scribblings

Rafting the Batoka Gorge, Zambezi River

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Commercial rafting first commenced on the Zambezi River in 1981 and since then this activity has grown in popularity.

Every year, approximately 50 000 people enjoy white water rafting on the Zambezi on a stretch of water that is now internationally acclaimed as the best white water rafting trip available in the world.

Features of the Zambezi River below Victoria Falls

  • The Zambezi River is classified as a high volume; pool-drop river i.e. there is little exposed rock either in the rapids or the pools below the rapids.

  • The distance between rapids varies from 100 metres to 2 kms.

  • The Batoka Gorge itself is approximately 120m deep at the put-in point and 230m at the take out point.

  • The river drops about 120m over the 24 km covered in the one-day raft trip and the depth of the river can reach 200 ft.

  • The British Canoe Union has classified the river Grade 5 – “extremely difficult, long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas”.

  • Nearly half of the rapids negotiated are Grade 5. (Grade 6 is un-runnable – rapid Number 9, “Commercial suicide” is a grade 6 rapid and we porter around this rapid).

Wildlife in the Batoka Gorge

  • Wildlife in the gorge is not abundant – it’s too steep. On occasion klipspringer, rock hyrax, vervet monkeys and baboon are spotted.

  • The birdlife is far more spectacular. Black eagle, augur buzzard, black stork, pied and giant kingfisher and red winged starling are some of the birds normally seen during the trips and sightings of the very rare Taita Falcon are  uncommon.

  • There are crocodile in the river, but they’re small and not a threat – this wild stretch of the Zambezi River is an unsuitable habitat.

Experience and Fitness for a Rafting trip

  • No previous rafting experience is required and clients need not be proficient swimmers.

  • At the beginning and at the end of the raft trip clients have to negotiate a steep path in and out of the Gorge.

  • The walk out is 230 vertical metres up a gradient of 1 in 3, and a person of average fitness can manage this in about 20 minutes.

Whitewater rafting age restrictions

  • The minimum age is 15 years. Children under 15 years may participate subject to consultation between parents and trip leader, whose decision is final.

  • The maximum age limit is dependent on the individual’s general state of health and physical fitness.

Rafts and Equipment

  • Operators us some of the finest equipment on the market to ensure that the trip is a safe and enjoyable one. Rafts  are the tried and tested river rafts required for the Zambezi River.

  • America’s Cup high flotation life jackets and Protec safety helmets are issued to clients before the day’s rafting.

  • Wet suits are provided and usually used by clients during the colder months (June/July).

  • All camping equipment, tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, dry bags, etc. is supplied on our multi-day trips and expeditions.

  • Clients need to bring good humour, shorts, T-shirts, costume, shoes, cap, sunglasses, sunscreen and toiletries.  Warm clothing is suggested on the winter-time multi-day expeditions.

Guides and Safety

  • Guides are fully trained professionals and all hold valid advanced first aid certificates.

  • Whilst every precaution is taken, it is essential that clients are fully aware that there is a risk of injury associated with the activity of rafting on the Zambezi.

  • A comprehensive first aid kit and skid stretcher are carried on each trip.

  • Each client is required to sign a White Water Rafting indemnity form prior to departure.

  • Each trip leader is in radio contact with our bases in Victoria Falls and Livingstone and direct with M.A.R.S. (Medical Air Rescue Service).

Zambezi whitewater rafting options

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  • The one-day rafting trip: Clearly the wildest one-day whitewater trip on the planet.  We operate on both shorelines in Zambia and Zimbabwe.  During high-water season (January to July) we run from rapids #11 to #25, during low-water season (August to January) you’ll experience the Zambezi at its finest from rapid #1 to #21. “Pitch and paddle next day” – no advance booking required.
If you thought the one-day option was a wild decision then here’s the serious stuff: multi-day Batoka Expeditions!  
  • A day and a night: Covers the day trip with a pull-out at rapid #23 and an overnight at our campsite over the Zambezi.  All inclusive, returns to Victoria Falls at around 10:00 on the second day.  Available during low water only.
  • Two and a half days: Includes an overnight camp at rapid #23 with rafting on the second day down to the upper Moemba campsite, trip ends next day at Chibongo (the Batoka dam site).  All inclusive and returns to Victoria Falls for lunch on the third day.  Available during low water only.
  • Five day expedition: A full coverage of the Batoka Gorge from Victoria Falls down to Matetsi.  Four nights are spent camping at rapid #23, upper “Moemba”, below Chibongo, and below “Asleep at the Wheel”.  Rafting continues on the fifth day followed by a 3 hour transfer back to Victoria Falls on the Milibizi/Hwange road.  Available during low water only.
  • Custom trips: all inclusive private expeditions for groups of between 4 and 20 guests on request.

The Batoka Rapids, Zambezi River

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White Water Rafting on the Zambezi River in Victoria Falls has been classified by the British Canoe Union as Grade 5 – “extremely difficult, long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas”. This is a high volume, pool-drop river with little exposed rock either in the rapids or in the pools below the rapids.

During “low water” season from around August to January, rapids #1 to #18 present a run of approximately 24km.  During “high water” season during February/March, June and July, only rapids #11 to #23 are run (approximately 18km).  Rafting usually stops during the heaviest flood season in April and May.

 

 

The Zambezi is renowned for its extremely high volume and steep gradient – treat it with respect….

  • The 3 “Minus rapids”:  Occur before the official #1.  Minus #1 and #2 are the only rapids that have been run, minus #3 is impossible to access because of its proximity to the falls. Rapid #2 is the biggest and most impressive rapid on the river.
  • “…against the wall” # 1: Class 4/5:  The Boiling Pot, is the start of the low water trip. From here the river hits a wall forming a wild cushion wave and eddy.
  • “…the bridge” # 2: Class 3: A wild mixture of waves best in the early part of the low water season. Clearly visible to bungee jumpers and spectators on the Victoria Falls bridge.
  • Rapid # 3: Class 4: A steep and radically fast wave with an easily avoidable hole. The second part of this rapid is best in the early part of the season – a small wave train with an excellent pocket on the Zambian side.
  • “Morning Glory” # 4: Class 4/5: The first major rapid offering varying lines with an almost river-wide hole at the top, followed by a few diagonals off the right hand wall and finally a big hole at the bottom.
  • “Stairway to Heaven” # 5: Class 5: Best in the early part of the season, with an 8m drop over 10m, very steep and powerful with a heap of massive waves and holes. Although it isn’t too technical, it’s size and volume make for an amazing spectacle and an even more amazing ride. Avoid the waterfalls and a hole on the left called the “catcher’s mitt” plus a large pourover on the right.
  • “Devil’s Toilet Bowl” # 6: Class 4: A Short rapid with a deceptively steep and powerful hole on entry followed by some nasty boils and whirlpools.
  • “Gullivers Travels” # 7: Class 5: A very respectful 700m run of class 5 high volume white water at certain levels. This is the longest and most technical rapid on the one day whitewater trip.  The run consists of a main channel with smaller channels feeding into it – includes the “Temple of Doom”, “The Crease”, “Patella Gap” and “Land of the Giants”.
  • “Midnight Diner” # 8: Class 3/5:  This rapid has 3 runs.  On the left is “Star Trek” with a hole of up to 5m reserved for the brave.  The “Muncher Run” in the centre takes you through a window of “Star Trek”.  On the right is the “Chicken Run”.
  • “Commercial Suicide” # 9: Class 5/6: The Zambezi’s most infamous. This is a river-wide pour-over with a very narrow slot of less than a metre on the right – commercial portage!
  • “Gnashing Jaws of Death” #10: Class 4: An easy run before lunch…..
  • “Overland Truck Eater” # 11: Class 5: A big barrel for about two weeks in the year during the transition between high and low water in mid January and early July. Watch out for the hole, eddy line and whirlpool.  This is the first rapid on the “high water” run.
  • “Three Sisters” #12A,B,C: Class 3/4: 12B is the famous Zambezi surfing wave for kayakers – surfs best between August and December with two windows and a massive green shoulder and a big eddy. Rafters prefer the term “three little pigs”.
  • “The Mother” # 13: Class 4/5: A massive wave train at its best, first 3 waves super fast.
  • Rapid # 14: Class 3: Big S-bend in the river. Center chute to be avoided at lower water levels.
  • “Washing Machine” # 15: Class 5: Simple wave train but un-runnable in the middle because of a huge crashing hole – go left or right into the eddy.
  • “The Terminators I and II” # 16: Class 4: A massive wave train and trough at higher levels, not much when low.
  • “Double Trouble” # 17: Class 5: A simple wave train but un-runnable because of 2 large holes – also known as “The Bitch”.
  • “Oblivion” # 18: Class 5: Three waves make up THE rapid on the Zambezi.. The 3rd crashing wave is responsible for more raft flips than any other in the world – only about 1 in 4 attempts succeed! This rapid marks the end of the “low water” one-day run.
  • Rapids #19 to #25: Class 2/3: Easy runs at the end of the day. Rapid #23 is the last rapid on the “high water” one-day run.

Zambezi white water rafting

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  • Acclaimed as the “wildest one-day whitewater run in the World”
  • recognised by rafting enthusiasts as one of the top ten paddling rivers on the planet!
  • If you don’t immediately associate the terms “Stairway to Heaven” and “Oblivion” with adventure then you haven’t experienced Zambezi Whitewater!
  • Do the one-day Zambezi whitewater trip or for best value join us on a multi-day rafting expedition through the Batoka Gorge.

 

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